Fu Hang Dou Jiang (阜杭豆漿) @ Huashan Market (华山市场), Taipei

Since 1958, Fu Hang Dou Jiang (阜杭豆漿) has earned its name as one of the most recognizable and popular brand name and its "scarcity" amongst the locals. Firstly, it does not open on Mondays; Secondly, it closes at 12noon because it is sold out or has decided to close the shop early; Lastly, it does not have its own shop and is well hidden in the market. Unless you are a local, otherwise, you will not know where to find great soy milk in Taipei.

Hidden on the second floor in Huashan Market (华山市场) next to Shandao Temple MRT Station (捷运善导寺站), the store opens at 5.30am daily and gets very busy after 8am. Just a stop away from the busy Taipei Main Station/ Railway Station (台北火车站),  many office works will come here to buy breakfast. Once you exit from Shandao Temple, you will see a snake-like queue first at the ground floor before you see the store itself. 

Highly recommended by the local cab driver, we drove to Fu Hang Dou Jiang (阜杭豆漿) for an early breakfast enroute to Ximending (西門町).

There was already a long line at the ground floor when we arrived at 7am on a Saturday morning. We expected a shorter queue as we presumed that people would still be snuggling in bed on a Saturday morning. We were wrong. The line started just outside the exit 5 of Shandao Temple station and continued to the second floor towards the store. There were at least 50 people between me and the order counter. At the top of the stairway, you would find a directional signage displaying the queue direction to manage the crowd.

After queuing for at least half hour, we finally reached the second floor. The second floor was similar to a open-concept food court, except that these food outlets occupied shop units. There were also adequate seating in the food court. 

We ordered a variety of beverages and food and spent a total of TWD269, which was equivalent to SGD11.80.

My personal favourites: the traditional oven-baked flat bread wrapped with dough fritters, and the sweet soy milk.

Using the traditional method of bakery, the flat bread was placed vertically inside the walls of the a cylinder brick and clay oven. At Fu Hang Dou Jiang (阜杭豆漿), you may order four different combinations.
  1. Thick/thin flat bread (烧饼)only
  2. Thick/thin flat bread (烧饼)with egg*;
  3. Thick/thin flat bread (烧饼) with dough fritters (油条)*; or
  4. Thick/thin flat bread (烧饼) with egg and dough fritters (油条)*
 * prices differ based on combination

We ordered two combinations: [1] Thick flat bread with egg and dough fritters (TWD60) & [2] Thin flat bread with egg and dough fritters (TWD54). Both flat bread combinations tasted the same. The only difference was the thickness of the flat bread. The bread was crispy and about half a foot long. The dough fritters (油条) was freshly prepared and crispy. The thin flat bread combi was a best proportion for the both of us. Compared to the thick flat bread combi, the thin combi was already filling. For small eaters, I suggest ordering the thin flat bread. Though the food was nice, the combination was oily overall. We got sick eating it even though we shared the half-foot long sandwich. (Food rating: 2.5/5)

Pan-fried egg wrap (蛋餅), priced at TWD28, looked very much like the Indian Roti Prata / Canai with egg. Texturally, it was almost identical to the Indian pan-fried bread. The pan-fried bread was a little too oily and the egg was salty. But the wrap was soft and chewy. On the whole, it was nothing to rave about. (Food rating: 2.5/5)

The savoury Radish Biscuit (蘿蔔絲鬆餅), priced at TWD22, had a nice peppery filling. The shredded radish were savoury and crispy, which was quite enjoyable. The biscuit reminded me of Singapore's traditional Pong Piah or Taiwanese Sun Biscuit (太陽餅). Though it was nice, it was  forgettable. (Food rating: 2.5/5)

The cab driver insisted that we try the salted soy milk (鹹豆漿). The soy milk was served in a bowl, instead of a cup, which was more prevalent in Singapore. In Singapore, only beancurd or soy pudding (豆花) is served in a bowl. Texturally, the salted soy milk was thick and a little lumpy. It was topped with a few pieces of cut dough fritters and Chinese coriander. Unlike the sweet soy pudding in Singapore, this salted soy milk was savoury and I felt as if I was having congee. Priced at TWD30 (SGD1.30), you could have either a vegetarian or a non-vegetarian salted soy milk. The difference was that the non-vegetarian salted soy milk contained salted shrimps. A little unusual to my liking but it was a unique experience. (Food rating: 3/5)

Like the sweet soy milk in Singapore, Fu Hang Dou Jiang also offers sweet soy milk (豆漿). The only difference was the milk from Fu Hang was thicker in viscosity. The fragrant soy beans had a rich aroma. The nectarous soy milk was quite enjoyable. Compared to Fu Hang, the sweet soy milk in Singapore, which was usually served in a cup, was generally sweet, fragrant and light. I would love this more if only the milk was thinner in viscosity. (Food rating: 3/5)

Uniquely in Taipei, Fu Hang Dou Jiang offers hot rice soy milk (熱米漿). The rice in the milk was very fragrant. Though I am not sure which type of rice was being used, I thought that the smell and taste were familiar, like Buckwheat or Brown rice. The milk was thick and had a rich aromatic fragrance. But it was a little too sweet for my liking. (Food rating: 2.5/5)

Our stash of different oven-baked breads

From top left (clockwise direction): Sweet Soy Milk (豆漿), Hot Rice Soy Milk (熱米漿), Sweet Soy Milk, and Salted Soy Milk (鹹豆漿)

The start of the queue just outside Shandao Temple Station Exit 5

A turn towards the market entrance

At least 20 people were before us in line

The directional signage to Fu Hang Dou Jiang

The free seating area - all of them were having Fu Hang's soy milk and flat breads.

The open-concept kitchen that showed staff working to prepare the flat bread. Note the traditional baking oven at the bottom left corner.

The menu 

Address: 100台北市中正区忠孝东路一段108号2F(华山市场二楼;捷运善导寺站出口5), 
Hua Shan Market, No. 108, Section 1, Zhongxiao East Rd, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City, Taiwan 100  
Price: $
Rating: 2.5/5
Stuffness Level (How full you are): 5/5